Bluesign Certification: Leading the Way in Sustainable Textile

I, Editor Kumaran and Joint Editor Deepa Subramani had an opportunity to meet Katharina, Regional Sales Manager of Bluesign Technologies, who came from Switzerland to Tirupur for an event held at the Poppys Hotel. After the event we interviewed her to make sure we get the latest knowledge about sustainable textiles. This interview is like a treasure chest of wisdom and information made just for people who love textiles.

Bluesign is making sure our clothes are better for the environment, and this interview will tell you all about it. They’re like sustainability superheroes in the textile world, and this is our chance to learn insight from them. In this exclusive interview from Bluesign, we delve into the specific sustainability aspects covered by its certification and the benefits it offers to manufacturers.

Certification Process Overview

Can you provide an overview of the certification process, from application to assessment to final certification?

The certification process begins with an initial assessment, including a preparation phase and a request for chemical inventory lists. An auditor then conducts an onsite inspection of the production site, followed by the issuance of a report with corrective action recommendations. Once major non-conformities are addressed, manufacturers may certify their products under the premium system partnership. Impact service assessments are also conducted with a focus on major conformities.

Sustainability Aspects

What specific sustainability aspects does your certification cover, such as environmental, social, and ethical considerations?

Bluesign covers all these aspects, but we primarily focus on the environmental aspect. Bluesign has evolved with a strong emphasis on environmental sustainability. However, during onsite assessments, we also evaluate the coverage of social aspects. If we find that the social aspect is not adequately addressed, we request a social audit. Ethical considerations are integrated within the social audit rather than in the environmental aspect.

Application & Certification Resources

Are there resources or guidelines available to assist manufacturers in applying for certification?

Yes, we provide criteria documents for manufacturers on our website. It’s recommended not to delve too deeply into details, as auditors handle that aspect. Manufacturers can focus on essential criteria and stay prepared.

Service Levels

What specific sustainability aspects does your certification cover, and what are the different service levels offered?

Bluesign offers two service levels. The first is our premium service, called BlueSign System Partnership, which covers a wide range of sustainability criteria. The second is our Impact Service, where we verify data related to CO2 emissions, water consumption, energy usage, safe chemistry, and more. These services are based on three pillars: environment, resources, and social aspects. We thoroughly assess factors affecting these pillars, ensuring holistic sustainability evaluation.

Audit Frequency and Announcement

How often are audits conducted, and are they announced or unannounced?

We do not conduct unannounced audits. We believe in trust and cooperation with our system partners. Reassessments typically occur every three years, but for manufacturers with a Hazardous Chemical Management System (HicFAM), we can offer yearly visits.

Environmental Criteria Assessment

What environmental criteria do you assess in the certification process, particularly regarding water usage and energy consumption?

For water usage, we assess specific water consumption based on annual production data. Manufacturers are expected to improve this over time. We also evaluate energy consumption, textile waste, and greenhouse gas emissions.

Environmental, Social, and Resource Pillars

Can you elaborate on the three pillars: environment, resources, and social aspects, that you assess in the certification process?

Certainly. In the environment pillar, we examine emissions to the air, wastewater emissions, waste generation, and soil impact. We go into detail to ensure that soil where production takes place is not negatively impacted.

The resource pillar focuses on the textile industry’s resource consumption, which is significant. We also evaluate social aspects, looking at whether the workforce is provided with safe working conditions and access to a safe environment. Occupational health and safety are crucial here.

Recognition and Accreditation

Is your certification recognized or accredited by any industry or regulatory bodies?

Bluesign is in the process of obtaining ISO 17065 certification. Several certification bodies, such as GOTS and ZTHC, acknowledge Bluesign assessments. Bluesign is also recognized for public procurement on the European Union and national levels by organizations like the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) and the International Trade Center (ITC).

Economic Sustainability

Can you explain how economic sustainability factors into your certification?

Economic sustainability is integral to the full picture of the Bluesign System Partnership. We believe that sustainability cannot exist without economic aspects. It encompasses the viability of businesses while maintaining ethical and environmentally responsible practices.

Chemical Usage & Waste Management

How do you assess chemical usage and waste management practices?

We collect data on annual production, chemical usage, and waste generation, breaking it down to chemical consumption per kilogram of fabric produced. We emphasize the use of approved chemicals, and if manufacturers use unapproved chemicals, we request a switch to Bluesign-approved ones. We also focus on waste reduction and recycling.

Material Sourcing and Sustainability

Do you have guidelines for sustainable and responsible sourcing of raw materials, such as organic cotton or recycled textile yarn?

Bluesign focuses on chemical integrity across all raw materials used in textile manufacturing. We ensure that hazardous substances are not present, regardless of whether the materials are virgin, recycled, or organic. We have criteria for recycled materials and recognize global recycle standards.

Assessing Environmental and Social Impact

How do you evaluate the environmental and social impact of raw material extraction or production?

Our assessment examines everything entering and leaving the factory. For raw materials, we focus on restricted substances that may pose threats to people or the environment. We encourage suppliers to have recycled content certificates, and we perform assessments based on our criteria for recycled materials.

Carbon Footprint & Environmental Impact

How do you evaluate the carbon footprint and overall environmental impact of textile manufacturers?

Bluesign has recently started calculating carbon footprints. We assess factors like energy sources and consumption during onsite inspections. However, there is a need for global standardization in setting boundaries for carbon footprint calculations.

Traceability and Data Integrity

Can you explain how Bluesign ensures traceability and data integrity within its system?

Bluesign assigns unique identifiers to products, manufacturers, and brands. This allows for traceability from raw materials to finished products. In case of issues, we can trace back to specific materials and batches.

Supplier Disclosure and Confidentiality

Do you require manufacturers to disclose their suppliers and sub-suppliers?

Bluesign prioritizes confidentiality and integrity. We do not insist on supplier disclosure. Manufacturers trust Bluesign to protect their data. Confidentiality is crucial in our partnership.

Worker Rights and Ethical Practices

How does Bluesign address issues related to child labor, forced labor, and workers’ rights in the certification process?

The social aspect of our certification includes labor rights and ethical practices. We review records and conduct interviews to ensure that workers’ rights are upheld. We address issues such as child labor and forced labor through this process.

Certification Costing

How much does the Bluesign certification typically cost for textile manufacturers?

The cost of Bluesign certification can vary depending on several factors, including the size and complexity of the manufacturing facility, the scope of certification (whether it’s the full Bluesign System Partnership or the Impact Service), and the specific needs of the manufacturer. Generally, manufacturers can expect certification costs to include application fees, auditing fees, and annual fees. As an example, for manufacturers opting for the Impact level, the annual system partnership fee is approximately 10,000 Swiss Francs, which is roughly equivalent to 10 lakhs in Indian Rupees.

Bluesign’s commitment to sustainability in textile manufacturing is evident through its comprehensive certification process and focus on environmental, resource, and social aspects. . As the textile industry strives for greater sustainability, Bluesign’s role in promoting responsible practices and environmental stewardship is more critical than ever.